Winter in Hokkaidō: Otaru Canal by Candlelight

Travel

Each winter the Otaru Snow Light Path festival bathes the city’s historic Otaru Canal in candlelight.

A Candelabra of Snow

The Otaru Snow Light Path festival is a winter spectacle that illuminates the northern city in the light of some 120,000 candles. Established in 1999 by local volunteers, the annual event has continued to grow, drawing upwards of 500,000 visitors to the twenty-first installment of the festival held February 8–17. Over 2,000 volunteers from across Japan and abroad made art installations from hand-carved ice candle holders at venues around the city, including the Otaru Canal, along the tracks of the old Temiya Line, and at Asarigawa Hot Spring.

Candles flicker at twilight.
Candles flicker at twilight.

Visitors crowded along the canal.
Visitors crowded along the canal.

An instillation of hand-carved ice candle holders.
An instillation of hand-carved ice candle holders.

Set on Ishikari Bay on the western coast of Hokkaidō, Otaru flourished beginning in the Meiji era (1868–1912) as a port for the nearby Ishikari coalfields and the city of Sapporo. The Otaru Canal, one of the town’s main symbols, was built during the Taishō era (1912–1926) by reclaiming land from the bay and used to move cargo to and from the port’s many brick warehouses.

Activity at the Otaru port waned after World War II as demand for coal fell and the local herring industry declined. The canal fell out of use after docks were built in the harbor, and from the 1960s to 1970s, a plan was hatched to fill in the canal and demolish the warehouses to make way for roads in an attempt to alleviate traffic congestion. A citizens’ movement arose in protest, and debate went on for more than a decade before authorities finally decided on building a road over half of the canal but also preserving the warehouse district. A walking path, municipal gardens, and 63 gas lamps were installed along the course of the canal, and the brick warehouses have also been gentrified, with restaurants and other businesses leasing space in them. Excursion boats now ply the canal’s waters, with hotels, bars, eateries, and souvenir shops lining the banks serving the many tourists who come to enjoy the historic atmosphere.

Visitors pause for photos along the canal walking path.
Visitors pause for photos along the canal walking path.

Candle art installations at the municipal gardens.
Candle art installations at the municipal gardens.

The soft light of the gas lamps and the warm glow of candlelight along the canal.
The soft light of the gas lamps and the warm glow of candlelight along the canal.

Along with candlelit paths and art installations, the decorations of the Snow Light Path festival also include hundreds of illuminated glass balls on the canal reminiscent of old-fashioned fishing floats.

Glass candle floats light up the canal.
Glass candle floats light up the canal.

Instillations include unique displays created by festival volunteers.
Instillations include unique displays created by festival volunteers.

Falling snow enhances the winter illumination.
Falling snow enhances the winter illumination.

(Originally written in Japanese. Reporting and photography by Laufen Katsu. Banner photo: Visitors stroll along the walking path at the Otaru Canal venue of the Otaru Snow Light Path festival.)

Otaru tourism Hokkaidō architecture snow