Jewels in the Sea: Four Classic Views of Miyagi’s Matsushima Bay

Matsushima Bay, with its many pine-covered islets, is one of Japan’s beloved Three Scenic Views. This Miyagi Prefecture destination’s lovely features change dramatically depending on the viewpoint you select to enjoy them. The Shidaikan, or “Four Scenic Viewpoints,” were named by Funayama Mannen, a Confucian scholar of the Sendai domain in the late Edo period (1603–1868). These are the Sōkan, the “grand view” from Ōtakamori of Higashi Matsushima; the Reikan, the “beautiful view” from Tomiyama, Matsushima; the Yūkan, the “serene view” from Ōgitani, also in Matsushima; and the Ikan, the “dynamic view” from the mountain Tamonzan across the bay in Shichigahama. Traveling by car to make the rounds of all four of these famous viewpoints has become a standard sightseeing course.

Matsushima Bay viewed from Ōtakamori. (© Shoe Press)

The Grand Sōkan Panorama

Ōtakamori is a 106-meter hill in roughly the middle of Higashimatsushima’s Miyato Island, enclosing the bay to the east. This perch offers a dynamic panorama of the bay and its numerous islets. Conveniently placed benches invite you to sit and contemplate what many consider to be the best view of the bay at your leisure.

DATA

• Location: Ōtakamori, Miyato, Higashimatsushima, Miyagi
• Access: 15 minutes by car from Nobiru Station on the JR East Senseki Line
• Tel.: 022-587-2322 (Higashimatsushima Tourist Association)
• Open freely
• Matsushima Tourist Association: http://www.matsushima-kanko.com/en/
• Higashimatsushima Tourist Association: http://okumatsushima-kanko.jp/en/

The Beautiful Reikan Panorama from Tomiyama

The undulating lines of Matsushima Bay’s numerous islets. (© Matsushima Tourist Association)Traveling inland from the Rikuzen-Tomiyama station in central Matsushima, follow the narrow forest path up Tomiyama to its peak, where you will find the temple Ōgyōji and the pavilion housing the Tomiyama Kannon, a Buddha image counted as one of the “three famous Kannon statues of Ōshū,” an old name for the region including Miyagi and several surrounding prefectures. Cryptomeria, pine, fir, and other trees tower over a roofed observation deck with an expansive view of the bay below. The quiet temple grounds and beautiful scene before you will transport you to another world.

DATA

• Location: Miura, Tetaru, Matsushima, Miyagi
• Access: 15 minutes by car from Rikuzen-Tomiyama Station on the JR East Senseki Line
• Tel.: 022-534-2618 (Matsushima Tourist Association)
• Open freely
• Matsushima Tourist Association: http://www.matsushima-kanko.com/en/

The Serene Yūkan Panorama: Save It for Sunrise

The enchanting view of the sun rising over the bay. (© Matsushima Tourist Association)Head south on National Route 45 along the Matsushima coast toward the town of Rifu. Just after the turn for the Matsushima Panorama line, a small, brown sign indicates a right turn up a forested, unpaved road. Stop at the parking lot, about 500 meters up the hill, and walk up a rather steep set of stone steps to the outlook at the top of the hill. Here Matsushima Bay spreads out before you like an open folding fan, giving the ravine below the name of Ōgidani (Folding Fan Valley). This is the spot for the Yūkan view, especially famous for its breathtaking sunrises. In the autumn, the bright red of the turning leaves accentuates the red rays of the rising sun extending over the bay.

DATA

• Location: Sakuragaoka-iri, Matsushima, Miyagi
• Access: 5 minutes by car from Matsushima Kaigan Station of JR East Senseki Line
• Tel.: 022-534-2618 (Matsushima Tourist Association)
• Open freely
• Matsushima Tourist Association: http://www.matsushima-kanko.com/en/

Ships and Islands: The Dynamic Ikan View

A ship cuts in front of Tamonzan on its way to the port of Shiogama. (Courtesy Miyagi Prefectural Government)The dynamic Ikan view from Shichigahama offers a very different perspective of the bay. Go to Tamonzan, a small park near the Tōhoku Electric Company’s Sendai Thermal Power Plant, and make your way down the slope from the parking lot to the north until you come to the small Bishamon-dō pavilion. From a spot right behind the pavilion you can view Matsushima Bay and such islands as Mahanashi-jima and Jizō-jima as ships weave their way between and around the islets.

DATA

• Location: Hachigamori, Yogasakihama, Shichigahama, Miyagi
• Access: 20 minutes by car from Tagajō Station of JR East Senseki Line
• Tel.: 022-357-7443 (Shichigahama Tourist Association)
• Open freely
• Matsushima Tourist Association: http://www.matsushima-kanko.com/en/

Nearby Attraction: Saigyō Modoshi no Matsu Park

The park is Matsushima’s most popular spot for viewing the cherry blossoms in spring. (© Matsushima Tourist Association)The well-known park is named after Saigyō (1118–90), a traveling monk of the Heian period. Legend has it that he was stopped under a massive pine tree by a child who asked a Zen riddle that he could not answer. This failure caused the monk to turn back the way he had come (the modoshi of the park’s name) and give up his plan to visit Matsushima. Today, the area is thickly planted with cherries. The trees burst into glorious bloom from mid- to late April, providing an attractive area for both flower-viewing and savoring the grand prospect of Matsushima Bay.

DATA

• Location: Inuta, Matsushima-aza, Matsushima, Miyagi
• Access: 5 minutes by car from Matsushima Kaigan Station of JR East Senseki Line
• Tel.: 022-354-2618 (Matsushima Tourist Association)
• Open freely
• Matsushima Tourist Association: http://www.matsushima-kanko.com/en/

(Text by Shoe Press. Banner photo: Islands large and small dot Matsushima Bay. Courtesy Miyagi Prefectural Government.)