Gifu’s Okuhida Onsengō: Japan’s Premier Outdoor Bathing Destination

Ancient Springs at the Foot of the Northern Alps

To the west of Mount Hotaka lies Okuhida Onsengō, an area in Takayama, Gifu Prefecture, known to hot-spring lovers throughout Japan. The region includes the villages of Hirayu, Fukuji, Shinhirayu, Tochio, and Shinhotaka, and is home to around 140 different lodges, with nearly every one offering rotenburo—outdoor baths—and views of the gorgeous 3,000-plus-meter peaks of the nearby Northern Alps from their tubs. Okuhida Onsengō has been called the best onsen area in the country thanks to its abundant supply of clear water.

A foot bath on the Nakao Plateau in Shinhotaka.

Visitors heading up into the foothills from Takayama, Gifu, will first come across the Hirayu hot springs. The oldest of the hot springs in the region, Hirayu is home to age-old bathhouses offering their own special types of rotenburo bath, such as those made out of hinoki cypress and stone. Plentiful souvenir shops also make this a popular destination for tourists.

A spring at Hirayu.Next down the valley to the north is Fukuji, located along the Takahara River (also called the Hirayu River along this stretch). The town has come to be known for its old lodges, exuding the air of the Japan of antiquity; it could be called one of the best-kept secrets of the region. Nearby attractions include the Okuhida Bear Park, home to around 100 bears.

Just downstream from here is Shinhirayu, the largest of the hot spring areas, stretching out along the foot of Mount Yakedake to the east. Many lodges here cater to large parties visiting the hot springs, and this district offers plenty of things to see and do.

Tochio lies at the confluence of the Hirayu and Gamata Rivers, and is full of guesthouses and eateries serving dishes made with freshwater fish and local mountain vegetables. The Gamata in particular is famous throughout Japan for its fishing spots, and visitors are welcome to enjoy both soaks in the tub and angling along the river banks during their stay.

The women’s bathing area at Tochio’s Kōjin-no-yu. Farther up the Gamata valley lie the Shinhotaka hot springs, located at the foot of the Hotaka mountain range. The view of the peaks of Yarigatake (Japan’s fifth-highest peak, at 3,180 m) and Kasagatake (2,898 m) from a steaming hot rotenburo bath is sure to wash away the cares of even the weariest traveler.

Riverside bathing at Shinhotaka.

Access to Okuhida Onsengō (from Tokyo)

By car: From the Takaido Interchange, take the Chūō Expressway to the Okaya junction, and then the Nagano Expressway to the Matsumoto interchange (around 210 km, or under 3 hours). On surface roads, take National Route 158 around 47 kilometers (about an hour) to reach Hirayu Onsen.

By rail and bus: Take the JR Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (around 1 hour 20 minutes), and then the JR Shinonoi Line to Matsumoto Station (around 80 minutes). (Train service from Tokyo’s Shinjuku Station to Matsumoto is also available, taking around 2 hours 45 minutes.) From Matsumoto, travel by Nōhi Bus to the Hirayu Onsen stop (around 90 minutes).

Okuhida Onsengō Tourist Association
Web: https://www.okuhida.or.jp/en/

(Originally published in Japanese on April 22, 2018. Banner photo: Hot springs at Shinhotaka. Photo courtesy of Okuhida Onsengō Tourist Association.)